{"id":2247,"date":"2023-04-09T21:41:36","date_gmt":"2023-04-09T19:41:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/eto44.ovh\/?p=2247"},"modified":"2025-09-19T15:35:42","modified_gmt":"2025-09-19T13:35:42","slug":"jacket-herringbone-twill","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/?p=2247","title":{"rendered":"JACKET HERRINGBONE TWILL No.\u00a045"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Spec. P.Q.D.&nbsp;No.&nbsp;45 du 3\/04\/1941<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Q.M.C. Tent. Spec. P.Q.D.&nbsp;No.&nbsp;45A du 16\/01\/1942<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"653\" height=\"330\" src=\"http:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/b.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-6615\" srcset=\"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/b.jpg 653w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/b-300x152.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 653px) 100vw, 653px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><i class=\"fas fa-pencil-alt\"> <\/i><span>Le treillis HBT de 1941 : naissance, usage et \u00e9volution<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En avril 1941, le War Department adopte une nouvelle tenue en coton Herringbone Twill (HBT), destin\u00e9e \u00e0 remplacer la tenue bleue encore en dotation. Ce treillis comprend un chapeau et une tenue deux-pi\u00e8ces (veste et pantalon) pour toutes les armes, ainsi qu\u2019une combinaison et une casquette r\u00e9serv\u00e9es aux m\u00e9caniciens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><i class=\"fas fa-pencil-alt\"> <\/i><span>Une premi\u00e8re version innovante mais imparfaite<\/h3>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"964\" height=\"1024\" src=\"http:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_7-964x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2248\" srcset=\"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_7-964x1024.jpg 964w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_7-282x300.jpg 282w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_7-768x816.jpg 768w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_7-1446x1536.jpg 1446w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_7.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 964px) 100vw, 964px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Distribu\u00e9e \u00e0 toutes les recrues pour l\u2019instruction et les corv\u00e9es, la version initiale du treillis surprend par son style. La veste, inspir\u00e9e par des stylistes civils, pr\u00e9sente une coupe ample et courte, un large col ouvert, des pattes de serrage \u00e0 la taille et deux poches de poitrine davantage d\u00e9coratives que pratiques. Le pantalon, plus conventionnel, reprend les codes du mod\u00e8le r\u00e9glementaire avec poches lat\u00e9rales et revolver.<br>Fabriqu\u00e9 massivement jusqu\u2019en 1942, ce treillis reste visible sur le terrain durant tout le conflit, malgr\u00e9 des d\u00e9fauts majeurs : complexit\u00e9 de confection, manque de praticit\u00e9 et inad\u00e9quation avec les exigences du combat.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"741\" height=\"1024\" src=\"http:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_8-741x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2249\" srcset=\"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_8-741x1024.jpg 741w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_8-217x300.jpg 217w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_8-768x1062.jpg 768w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_8-1111x1536.jpg 1111w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_8-1481x2048.jpg 1481w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_8.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 741px) 100vw, 741px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">La veste se distingue par une coupe plus large et plus courte que celle du treillis bleu. <br>On remarque sur la vue de dos l&#8217;empi\u00e8cement aux \u00e9paules et les plis d&rsquo;aisance sur les omoplates<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><i class=\"fas fa-pencil-alt\"> <\/i><span>De l\u2019entra\u00eenement au champ de bataille<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Initialement pr\u00e9vu pour les t\u00e2ches d\u2019instruction et de service, le treillis devient rapidement une tenue de combat. On l\u2019aper\u00e7oit d\u00e8s 1942 dans le Pacifique Sud, o\u00f9 il est utilis\u00e9 faute de tenue sp\u00e9cifique de jungle, et en Afrique du Nord, notamment au sein de la 3rd Infantry Division lors de l\u2019op\u00e9ration Torch. En revanche, il dispara\u00eet presque totalement des campagnes d\u2019Italie et d\u2019Europe du Nord-Ouest, sauf dans les unit\u00e9s de soutien.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><i class=\"fas fa-pencil-alt\"> <\/i><span>La refonte de 1942 : entre n\u00e9cessit\u00e9 et pragmatisme<\/h3>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"680\" height=\"1024\" src=\"http:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_1-680x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2250\" srcset=\"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_1-680x1024.jpg 680w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_1-199x300.jpg 199w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_1-768x1156.jpg 768w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_1-1020x1536.jpg 1020w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_1-1360x2048.jpg 1360w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_1.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 680px) 100vw, 680px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Si l\u2019inadaptation du mod\u00e8le de 1941 aurait suffi \u00e0 justifier son abandon, c\u2019est surtout la production industrielle qui pose probl\u00e8me. La coupe trop sophistiqu\u00e9e ralentit les ateliers mobilis\u00e9s pour l\u2019effort de guerre. \u00c0 l\u2019automne 1942, le Quartermaster Corps d\u00e9cide donc de simplifier le patronage, suivant les recommandations des confectionneurs. Objectif : permettre \u00e0 un plus grand nombre de fabricants, y compris ceux dot\u00e9s de mat\u00e9riel rudimentaire, de participer \u00e0 la production, tout en r\u00e9servant les ateliers sp\u00e9cialis\u00e9s aux pi\u00e8ces les plus complexes.<br>Cette \u00e9volution vise aussi \u00e0 rendre la tenue plus polyvalente, utilisable aussi bien pour l\u2019entra\u00eenement que pour le combat.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"680\" src=\"http:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_2-1024x680.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2251\" srcset=\"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_2-1024x680.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_2-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_2-768x510.jpg 768w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_2-1536x1020.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_2-112x75.jpg 112w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_2-425x283.jpg 425w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_2-430x287.jpg 430w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_2.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"><em>Poche avec soufflet&nbsp;central et rabat<\/em> <em>biseaut\u00e9&nbsp;(M-1941)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignleft size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"508\" src=\"http:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_3-1024x508.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2252\" srcset=\"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_3-1024x508.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_3-300x149.jpg 300w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_3-768x381.jpg 768w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_3-1536x762.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_3.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\"> La veste pr\u00e9sente certains \u00e9l\u00e9ments uniquement d\u00e9coratifs comme la bande rapport\u00e9e \u00e0 la taille orn\u00e9e de deux boutons .<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"834\" height=\"1024\" src=\"http:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_4-834x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2253\" srcset=\"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_4-834x1024.jpg 834w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_4-244x300.jpg 244w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_4-768x943.jpg 768w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_4-1251x1536.jpg 1251w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_4.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 834px) 100vw, 834px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Dispositif d\u2019aisance constitu\u00e9 d\u2019un pli dorsal sur la ligne des omoplates.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"680\" src=\"http:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_5-1024x680.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2254\" srcset=\"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_5-1024x680.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_5-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_5-768x510.jpg 768w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_5-1536x1020.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_5-112x75.jpg 112w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_5-425x283.jpg 425w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_5-430x287.jpg 430w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_5.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Les pattes de serrage sont  munies d\u2019une boucle au niveau des hanches<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"922\" src=\"http:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_6-1024x922.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2255\" srcset=\"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_6-1024x922.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_6-300x270.jpg 300w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_6-768x692.jpg 768w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_6-1536x1383.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/HBT_M41_6.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">La manchette se ferme par deux boutons, permettant un ajustement plus ou moins serr\u00e9 du poignet.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Bouton \u00e0 treize \u00e9toiles<\/strong> (Button, Metallic, Self-Tracking, 27-lignes)<br>Standardis\u00e9 en 1941, ce bouton m\u00e9tallique \u00e9quipait la majorit\u00e9 des effets en <em>Herringbone Twill<\/em> (HBT). Il constitue un \u00e9l\u00e9ment embl\u00e9matique de l\u2019uniforme, indissociable des treillis en toile HBT, dont la texture en chevron est caract\u00e9ristique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table class=\"has-fixed-layout\"><tbody><tr><td><strong>D\u00e9nomination<\/strong><\/td><td><strong>Spec.<\/strong><\/td><td><strong>Transformations<\/strong><\/td><td><strong>No. Stock<\/strong><\/td><\/tr><tr><td>JACKET, HERRINGBONE, TWILL<\/td><td>Spec. P.Q.D.&nbsp;No.&nbsp;45 du 3\/04\/1941<\/td><td>Deux poches de poitrine \u00e0 plis de complaisance, bande rapport\u00e9e au niveau des hanches pouvant \u00eatre ajust\u00e9e par des boucles de serrage, et bande de tissu rapport\u00e9e dans le dos, au niveau des \u00e9paules. <br>Fabriqu\u00e9 dans une toile \u00e0 chevron de couleur <em>Light OD<\/em> (vert clair).<\/td><td>55-J-424 \u00e0 55-J-494<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>JACKET, HERRINGBONE, TWILL<\/td><td>Q.M.C. Tent. Spec. P.Q.D.&nbsp;No.&nbsp;45A du 16\/01\/1942<\/td><td>Ajout \u00e0 la gamme de fabrications des tailles en pointure&nbsp;34.<\/td><td>55-J-414 \u00e0 55-J-494<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>L&rsquo;\u00e9volution suivant du mod\u00e8le sera r\u00e9pertori\u00e9e sous la sp\u00e9cification <strong>Jacket, Herringbone Twill<\/strong> Q.M.C. Tent. Spec. P.Q.D. n\u00b0\u202f45B du 2 novembre 1942,<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p class=\"text-justify mb-2\" >Spec. P.Q.D.&nbsp;No.&nbsp;45 du 3\/04\/1941 Q.M.C. Tent. Spec. P.Q.D.&nbsp;No.&nbsp;45A du 16\/01\/1942 Le treillis HBT de 1941 : naissance, usage et \u00e9volution En avril 1941, le War Department adopte une nouvelle tenue en coton Herringbone Twill (HBT), destin\u00e9e \u00e0 remplacer la tenue bleue encore en dotation. Ce [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2256,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[56],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2247","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-vestes"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2247","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2247"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2247\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6621,"href":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2247\/revisions\/6621"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/2256"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2247"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2247"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/eto44.ovh\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2247"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}